FishTales

A Newsletter History of the Fish/Morse Families

 

November 1998
Issue # 16


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"The English Don't Seem
To Need Any Air."

From the Diary of Maria Yale Fish during her trip to Europe in 1896

Transcribed by her great granddaughter, Kaye Feallock

 
Maria Y. Fish 1896

 

Friday, July 10th
After some consideration we started and drove to Kenilworth where, of course we saw the ruins which are beautiful, with ivy growing all over. Then on our way to Warwick we stopped and saw "Guy's Cliff," someone's residence which is situated very prettily, but of course is more modern. When we reached the town we went through the castle which is said to be the finest feudal castle now in England, and then through the gardens, which are fine, but not nearly as extensive as those of Eaton Palace. We did not stop to see the Hospital as it was getting late and we had decided to lunch at Stratford-on-Avon. After reaching there, the first thing we did was to go to the Red Horse Inn for a lunch which did not prove very successful. Afterwards we went to see the house where Shakespeare was born, with the names of the great people who have been there on the walls of the room in which he was born. It was very quaint and old. Then we saw the House where he lived and went into the church where he and his wife are buried. There is a bend in the church about where the chancel begins about which there are many theories. We saw also the memorial theatre, the monument given by Wm. Child's and the wonderful Avon! All the country is so pretty, rolling and green, with trees along the road something as in New England. And then the fields of poppies! We returned to Leamington in time for dinner, meeting some soldiers on our way. Afterwards Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went out for a little while to hear the band play in the park.

.............................................................


Saturday, July 11th
This morning we left Leamington for Oxford where we are now staying, at the Randolph Hotel, as the latter name seems to be hard for me to remember, the different members of our party are continually asking me where we are staying, and of course I don't know. After lunch we took a drive going first to Professor Fairbairn's as Dr. Bradford wished to call then to Keble College where we saw the dining hall and then to the Thames which is a tiny river here, but with a number of boats. After seeing that we went back to Christ's' Church College where we saw old "Tom Quad," but couldn't see the hall, as something was going on, but we peeked in the church and found our way for tomorrow. We also stopped at Magdalen which has beautiful grounds and also at New College, which is very interesting as it has some of the old city wall around part of it, and in the chapel is a beautiful window I believe designed by Reynolds. Dr. Bradford had to go to London for to-morrow, so he has left us for the first time, with Nell as pilot, though it seems a very quiet place.

Sunday, July 12th
This morning Nell and I went to the cathedral at Christ's Church College to service, after which we walked to the Thames and back and looked at the "Broad Walk" which is beautiful and is considered one of the points of interest. After lunch we wrote letters and were constantly interrupted by bands outside our window. Apparently there was some kind of a parade, which made it rather lively considering it is Sunday. After that passed we had some singing by the Salvation Army or some other body. A little later we all walked to Worcester College to see the gardens, but of course they were closed, then Nell and I walked through Baliol College and into the Commons which was interesting though we only staid a few minutes as we were to meet Mrs. and Miss Wilde then go to service in the chapel of New College. The music was grand, and we nearly lost our dinner listening to it. The organ is said to be one of the finest in England. To-night we had table d'hote and this evening as usual are writing. This afternoon we met Miss Vanderbilt, Mr. A. Vanderbilt's daughter. She is staying at the same hotel as we are. I forgot to mention the cloisters of New College are fine and in fact all the buildings are very old and interesting.

 

Randolph Hotel
Oxford, July 12


My dear Aunt,

Here we are at Oxford. . .

Dr. B. came here with us yesterday & showed us round some, but he had to go to London, so we have arranged to go up & meet him there tomorrow morning. . .

I shall not tire you all out when I reach home. I have written Papa one letter which has a picture of the Leamington Hotel on it.

Tell Uncle that we have come to candle lights again, for at Chester & Leamington, that was all the[y] gave us in our rooms & most of the hotels have such a funny odor. I believe it is supposed to come from the age & being shut up. That is a thing you would not like, the English don't seem to need any air. If we open our windows & go to dinner, when we come back everything will be shut tight, & locked. And another thing, the food is never seasoned & even I have to put salt on sometimes. The butter never has any. They say that is the way they tell Americans, because they nearly all salt their butter. We are having a fine time.. Nell is so different than I thought. I supposed we would get along all right, but she is very nice. I like her better than I expected. We are all crazy for letters & are expecting some when we get to London. So far Brown, Shipley & Co. has not had our address. Dr. B. has been talking some of a trip down the Rhine & possibly we may go to one or two places in Switzerland. It will be great if we only can.

The money is enough to set one crazy, but we are getting on finely now. . . Mrs. Wilde is quite a traveller & really is great fun. Miss W. is all right, but can't endure much yet. Dr. B. is great fun & in some ways reminds me of Papa, his remarks, etc. He acts so like a boy. I am afraid he is having a nice hot Sunday for it is pretty warm here.

We are all disgusted at the Democrats, but are thinking that McKinley must be elected. Do you remember the night Bryan spoke on income tax at the Outlook? I do hope you are not keeping on with your headaches every other day & that Bella is getting better quickly. . .

With much love

Your niece, Maria Y.Fish



Monday, July 13th
This morning we left Oxford for London where Dr. Bradford met us at the station and we took our first ride in a hansome [sic] to the Langham hotel where we are staying for the present. The first thing we did after leaving our things was to get on top of a bus and go down to Brown, Shipley and Co. for our mail, which as far as I was concerned was not huge. From there we went to the Holborn Restaurant for lunch, after which Mrs. and Miss Wilde came back to the hotel, while Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went to find a better place as our rooms were not very good. While we were out we stopped at the "Cecil" which is said to be the finest hotel in the world. It certainly is beautiful, but I shouldn't wish to live in it. Our trip was not successful so as they have changed our rooms we have decided to stay here for a time at least. We had supper here for a change and then listened to the music for a while.

 

Tuesday, July 14th
The first thing to-day, in the way of sight-seeing was to start out in two hansomes, Dr. Bradford, Mrs. and Miss Wilde in the first and Nell and I following. We stopped at Westminster Chapel to which Dr. Bradford was called and went through it, then saw the outside of the Houses of Parliament and went into Westminster Abbey. The first impression of the outside was rather smaller than is imagined on account of the surrounding buildings, but inside it is beautiful and the immense height, 100 feet, impressed me more than anything else. We saw the cloisters and the building in general, but did not try to look at anything separately. After a short time we went to Brown, Shipley and Co. for the mail, and then to the Holborn for lunch, after which we did some rushing around, going into Peter Robinson's for something we wanted but could not find and finally, Dr. Bradford, Nell and I caught the four o'clock train for Leicester where he was going to lecture on Japan. He took us so we might see the inside of an English Home. Dr. Bradford's friend, Mr. Baines, met us at the depot and we drove direct to his house where Mrs. Baines and the children were waiting for us. They have a small dog which occupied much of the conversation. Just before we went up for the night we had some ginger ale and something to eat, a custom which seems to be everywhere, and which is certainly a very nice one. Another custom seems to be to have afternoon tea, at four, also with something to eat. The house is a very homey and comfortable one, without any pretence (sic).

 

Wednesday, July 15th
This morning Mr. Baines took us all, including the children, for a drive to Bradgate Park, six or eight miles from Leicester, in which are the ruins of a house where Lady Jane Grey spent some of her life. We entered at one side and the carriage was sent around to the other side to meet us, as we were obliged to walk through. First we went to the top of a hill where there were an old tower and an arch and then we walked on down to the ruins, which unfortunately can only be seen from the outside, it not being safe to go too near. They were not very extensive, but very picturesque. After leaving the ruins, we walked along a shady road for some little time before we came to the gate outside of which we found the carriage waiting for us. We reached the house about half past one, and our luncheon was very welcome. The country was so pretty, rolling and green, with the trees a darker shade, though it all seems so much cultivated. We spent most of the afternoon, reading in the garden which is just as I imagine an English garden would look. One strange thing over here is that they train their fruit trees just the way we would vines, up the side of a house or along a fence whichever is the most convenient. About four-thirty we went in for tea and at half-past six we had dinner so as to give more time as Dr. Bradford was to lecture at eight. There were three ministers to dinner besides Dr. Bradford. When we returned their minister came with us and stayed so long that we finally excused ourselves and left him with the family which I admit was not exactly polite.

 

Thursday, July 16th
Much to our sorrow it was raining when we went to breakfast this morning, so we amused ourselves by reading for a while then Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went out with Mr. Baines to see "the most beautiful Roman pavement in the world." It really is wonderful how perfect the pattern has kept all these years. We also went into a school which was most interesting and some of the classes sang for us. It is my private opinion that they rather enjoyed it as it was a change. After lunch we took the 2:08 train for London which we reached about four-thirty. While we were waiting for the train Mr. Baines found the books with pictures of Leicester which he presented to each of us. We dined at the Oxford Circus Restaurant, and the food tasted more like home than any place yet, for it really did have a little seasoning, which seems most unusual.

 

Friday, July 17th
Dr. Bradford and Nell started out after rooms and were to meet us at Brown, Shipley and Co.'s about noon, so in the meantime we wrote letters for to-morrow's mail. As we had to wait sometime I wrote another letter at the office. Finally they appeared, and after a light lunch we went to explore the Tower of London which is most interesting though we did not do any climbing. After some gentle persuasion on the part of Dr. Bradford one of the "Buffetteers" showed us into the little old church where so many of the prisoners, etc. are buried. It was very interesting though I do not remember half that was told me. We saw the place where the scaffolds were erected and then walked around the outside. We also went up and saw many of the crown jewels and plate, though not for long, for if we forgot ourselves and stood still for a minute or so we were politely requested to move on. On our way out we stopped for Mrs. Wilde's bag which she had been requested to leave behind for fear she might carry off some of the armor or something! After leaving the Tower, Mrs. and Miss Wilde and I went into the National Gallery for a short time before returning to the hotel. We all went out to dinner, then Dr. Bradford, Nell and I drove up Oxford Street on top of a bus passing Hyde Park. We then walked across and took a bus down Piccadilly. As we passed Hyde Park, on the other side we saw the Albert Memorial, but we did not stop to examine it closely. Bus riding is great fun, especially when one is on top and has the front seats.

Saturday, July 18th
We are still room hunting. Miss Wilde and I staid in and I wrote part of a letter! This time it is believed that they (the party) have been successful and we have taken rooms in a private hotel. When they returned with this information Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went to the tailors where Nell is having a dress made. After lunch we packed and proceeded to move to Stephens's Private Hotel where our rooms seem nice though Dr. Bradford's is very small. In the evening we sat around our new hotel for a while and as usual I finished a letter. (The usual part is the writing). We went up moderately early as there was nothing especial going on.

 

Sunday, July 19th
This morning we decided, without any question, that we do not like our rooms, for between the street in front and the underground railroad behind we have much more than we bargained for, and shall probably move to-morrow as soon as we find a place in this locality. Mrs. and Miss Wilde and I went to service at the Foundling Hospital, which was very interesting as all the children were seated near the organ (which was a present from Handel), the boys on one side and the girls on the other. After service we saw the boys march into dinner, sing grace, then climb over their benches and sit down to work, a kind which they apparently enjoyed. From there we went in to see the girls who had already begun by that time. They all wore caps and kerchiefs and looked very tidy. In the afternoon, wonderful to relate, I fell asleep! Miss Wilde and I did not go out in the evening as we both had headaches and thought we would save our energy for future use.


Mrs. Samuel Wilde & Mary H. Wilde

Monday, July 20th
This morning we packed and moved to Bailey's South Kensington Hotel which is much more quiet and we like it better than any we have been in. After our trunks arrived Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went down on a bus, had lunch, saw some men Dr. Bradford wished to see, went for the mail and finally went to St. Paul's for a short time. It is very different from Westminster though beautiful in its way. It felt so cool inside and quite a change for it has been very hot the last few days. Nell and I did some small shopping, then we dined at the Holborn. Afterwards we went to the Albert Memorial and examined that and found it most interesting. The figures are all in relief and the group "America,"which is on one corner, with "Europe," "Asia," and "Africa" on the other three is particularly fine. On the four sides of the monument in relief are the prominent writers, painters, sculptors and architects, and musicians of different times. We did not stay up long after returning for we were all rather tired.

 

Tuesday, July 21st
This morning, sad to relate, we were later than usual and as Mrs. Wilde is not well we did not do what we planned. Dr. Bradford, Nell and I went to the dress makers and to the tailors and then looked in at Peter Robinson's for something which Nell wanted, but as seems to be the rule here, we could not find just what we wanted so we finally returned to the hotel with very little accomplished. I took table d-hote with Miss Wilde and in the evening we accomplished nothing more than talking.

 

. . . you would better continue to send letters care of Brown, Shipley & Co., as we probably shall not be here over a week. I cannot say definitely, as Dr. B. has a little way of changing his mind. We have met some more steamer people, but we have not seen any Montclair people except Miss Vanderbilt, whom we met at Oxford.

I forgot to tell you that Dr. B. met Mr. & Mrs. Brinkerdoff (?) or whatever you call it. He is a brother to the man you used to be afraid of, the one that carries his cane in his pocket, & I believe lives in Brooklyn. . .

Love to all. Don't worry about me. . .

Your affectionate niece,

Maria Y. Fish

 

Wednesday, July 22nd
This morning we wrote until lunch, which we had at the hotel. Afterwards Dr. Bradford took Miss Wilde and me to the Museum of Natural History where he left us as he and Nell were going out of town for the night. The Museum was very interesting, but much the same as other large places of the kind. On our way home we purchased some crackers etc. which we put into use without much delay. The rest of the day we wrote talked, etc. Miss Wilde and I are having dinner by ourselves. Nothing very exciting occurred during the evening.


Aunt Sarah Carey

Thursday, July 23rd
The first part of the morning I finished some letters for a change, then Miss Wilde and I took a hansome (sic) and went to the City Temple to meet Dr. Bradford and Nell, and to hear Dr. Parker. He was very interesting. After the service we met Dr. A. J. Lyman, our nice minister from Brooklyn. He is coming to see us to-morrow. We lunched at the Holborn and then returned to the hotel. About five Miss Wilde and I went out to Hyde Park to watch the driving. For all it is so much talked about, it did not seem any more stylish than at home, though possibly the average is higher. A nice letter to-day from home.

 

Friday, July 24th
This morning all of us except Mrs. Wilde went down to the Royal Gallery to see the exhibition of modern painting, which is being held there, some of which I liked very much. Dr. Bradford had some errands to attend to so he left us there until lunch time when he returned and we all went into a bakery for our large lunch. Afterwards we returned to the hotel and rested for a short time, until Dr.Lyman appeared when we went around to the Imperial Institute for dinner. After dinner we walked through some of the buildings, saw some of the horseless carriages which were going, then went into the court, which was brilliantly lighted, to hear the music. We did not stay very long as Dr. Lyman was afraid of catching cold in his arm which was hurt crossing.

 

Saturday, July 25th
This morning we started out to see the Houses of Parliament and so we went all through them. They are huge buildings and very high and massive but I think I like the outside of them the best. When we came out we walked along the bridge a little way so as to have a good look at the Houses from the river and they are fine. Afterwards Mrs. Wilde and Nell went to the dress makers and I bought some photographs of London etc. We all had lunch and Miss Wilde and I went to service in Westminster. We had a sermon besides the service as it proved to be St. James' Day so we came out wiser, if not better girls. We stayed a few minutes after to look around, and then I piloted us back to the hotel without getting us lost first, much to my joy.

 

Sunday, July 26th
This morning all of us except Dr. Bradford went to hear Dr. Parker of the City Temple. While there we met the Miss Marshall, who crossed with us and she lunched with us at the Inns of Court after which we all went to St. Paul's for the afternoon service. The building is fine with a great dome, which, they say, is something the style of St. Peter's in Rome. When we came out it was raining so we took a "four wheeler" back to the hotel, where we have done nothing but have dinner and writeour usual occupation, when not otherwise engaged!

 

Monday, July 27th
Our first move to-day was to pack our trunks to leave at the hotel, for we are going away for a short time, and are only taking bags. We took the one o'clock train for Salisbury where we are spending the night at the White Hart Hotel, which is a queer old place, with harts ground into the window glass. After having lunch we went right over to the cathedral which is beautiful outside, but very plain inside though there are one or two fine windows. The close around it is much larger than any we have yet seen and there are such beautiful old trees. Baedeker says that this cathedral is the most perfect example of Early English Architecture in England. The spire, which is 406 feet, is nearly in the centre and is also beautiful.


Hotel Salisbury

My dear Family:

As you can see we are here at Salisbury, having come right from London, without staying at Winchester as we expected, for we decided to take that in on our way back from the Isle of Wight. . . We do see such funny people. Just at the moment there is an old man in the room who keeps going to sleep & then waking up with a snore, but it doesn't seem to cure him, for he only does the same thing over. I don't blame him for this room is hot enough to make anyone sleepy. . .

July 28 - Another beautiful day & we are to start for Stonehenge in about fifteen minutes, so we are all making hay while the sun shines, so to speak & writing our letters for tomorrow's mail. I may add a line at the Isle of Wight, but if not, you will hear about it in my next.

Excuse my mistakes, but there is a youngster howling outside the window which is rather vexing.

I do hope that you will get rested this summer & that Mr. G.W. [George Fish, owner of the Quissett Harbor House] will not bother you with his troubles. Carriage is at the door. [The following is written in pencil after they are under way] Dr. B. gave the order, so we are started. We couldn't have had a better day for the drive & it reminded me of the moors at Quissett for we had to drive right over what they call the Salisbury Plains, but it reminds me of the country around Sunset Hill, only more of it. The stone sare much larger than I expected & it seems so queer because there are no other rocks anywhere around. Coming back we stopped at Old Sarum, which was used by the Romans & from which the cathedral was moved to Salisbury some-tiime in the 13th century. there is nothing there now but a terraced hill with the moat & a few remains of walls etc. I hope you will excuse the pencil, but we are waiting at the Salisbury station for our train to Portsmouth for the Isle of Wight. It is nearly time to leave so I must stop. With a great deal of love for, I am

Your niece,

Maria Y. Fish


Tuesday, July 28th
This morning we drove to Stonehenge and saw the remains of the temple, which are huge great stones, much larger than I ever imagined, and the mystry (sic) is how they ever placed the cross pieces. The road by which we went was very pretty with large trees all along and in some places it was very steep. Before we reached the Stones we had to drive over a long stretch of what I should call moors, but what the natives call the Salisbury Plains. On our way back we stopped at Old Sarum which was an old Roman city, though now there is nothing left, but the hill, terraced, and the remains of an old wall around it with the moat at the bottom. There is a fine view of Salisbury from the top. After leaving there we went direct to the station at Salisbury where we had our lunch and took the 3:15 train for Stokes Bay where after doing considerable walking on a peir (sic) we took a ferry boat for Ryde, Isle of Wight, and then the train for Ventnor. When we arrived there we took the hotel bus and such a drive as we had, winding first one way and then another, down, down, down, then up for a little way and finally reaching the Marine Hotel which faces right on the ocean, though it is on quite a high cliff. Our rooms are on the third floor front so we have a fine view of the ocean which to-day is as calm as a mill pond. After dinner Dr. Bradford, Nell and I walked down a steep road, to the beach, along that for a way, and then out on the pier where there was a band of music. It seems to be the fashion for girls to carry canes, I suppose on account of the hills. It is the best place we have been in yet because of the ocean and the country.

 

Wednesday, July 29th
This morning Dr. Bradford and Nell walked and Mrs. and Miss Wilde and I drove to Shanklin taking in Bonchurch on the way. Here we met the rest of the party and went into the church which is next to the smallest on the island and when it was used held 60 persons. Dr. Bradford and Nell again left us going along by the water while we followed the road which is very hilly, but most of the way we could catch glimpses of the ocean and it was so beautiful. Before we reached Shanklin we came to what is called the "Chine" where we left the carriage and walked through. It is a ravine with a waterfall which runs down a very narrow gorge. The sides are rock with moss and ferns growing on them, and the brook is very winding. When we reached the place where the carriage was to meet us we found ourselves almost on the beach of Shanklin. We came back another way which gave us an idea of the country further inland. This afternoon we drove (with Nell, but not Dr. Bradford) to Black Gang, a place in the opposite direction from the morning's drive. The road is more beautiful for we go through woods, the trees of which are covered with ivy. As it rained, only Nell and I went to the Chine. It was a ravine between the cliffs, and along the beach real grass grew almost to the water. The view of the cliffs was fine and as it cleared away we could get quite a view of the Needles. While waiting for dinner, we watched a small and select boat race, which was really quite exciting and made me wish to be there.


[To be continued]


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 Fish Tales
A Newsletter History of the Fish/Morse Families

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